![]() ![]() The reason being that for exterior windows, one wants Is 18 ounces of 'whiting' per 10 ounces of oil.Įxtol a commercial product that uses strictly 'cold-pressed'Īnd raw linseed oil to make their glazing. seems veryĮxpensive for calcium carbonate. The proportions of oil to chalk (I found Irwin sells chalkįor marking purposes for 1.69 for 8 oz. It seems to be very difficult to get actual 18th century Oil mixed with certain ingredients to accelerate drying Read that 'boiled' linseed oil may actually only be linseed I've collected thus far: was it raw linseed oil? I've also However, there are certain details missing from the info Preparation was commonly used for exterior uses. I've since learned that a linseed oil and chalk I found this thread whileĪttempting to garner information on 18th century glazier's That will help your putty dry to a matte finish. If you have any rottenstone powder, very lightly sprinkle on the putty when it no longer slumps. The putty may slump a little but work with it and be patient. Working time is about 15 minutes, but just add a little shellac if it stiffens up or drags. Whiting's primary function in your paint department is to thicken paint, and it does a good job at that. If you get it too thin, just add a little more whiting. ![]() Should be about the consistency gravy that has sat out for a couple of hours. It will clump up, but keep adding gradually and mix it well. That way you can get a best estimate of the color when dryĪfter your dry ingredients are mixed together and you're satisfied with the color, slowly add shellac to the powder. ![]() I'd encourage experimenting by adding shellac to a tad of your dry mix before adding shellac to the whole thing. The mixture will darken up with the addition of shellac. Amount of whiting to use? About 1/3 cup.assuming the door size is approx. May need to adjust amount of VanDyke brown. Pigments are mix & match to get the right color. You will add these dry powdered pigments to dry whiting. A metal putty knife will react with the acidic shellac and leave gray streaks in your putty.įor the pigments, most likely colors I'd use are Raw Umber 75% and VanDyke brown 25% ~ approximately. I add common powdered pigment to the whiting.īefore you get started, make sure you have a plastic (or rubber) applicator, similar to one used by body shops to apply bondo. Mix the dry ingredients first to get an approximate color. What I'd do is get a container to mix up your putty in. If you're going to tint it, it's probably easier to make your own stirring that stiff commercial stuff is murder.Īpparently you're ready to take the leap with the shellac and whiting! The original putty contained white lead (lead carbonate) which acted both as a filler and whitener and as an accelerator (the role now played by Japan drier, which also contains heavy metal salts- wash your hands after contact!) Both linseed oil putty and the commercial stuff (which uses synthetic oils) take weeks to dry thoroughly, but a window can be put in use after a few hours or a day (but not painted for several days, at least.) The main objection to both is the smell of the linseed oil, which is used to apply both (to wet the putty knife blade- and don't be tempted to use motor oil!) Both can be tinted with oil colors, including oil-based wood stains, or artists colors, like burnt or raw sienna or umber.Īt least the raw materials for DIY mixing (whiting, boiled linseed oil, japan drier, oil tints) don't go bad on the shelf. Stained glass artisans prefer the original recipe, and a good stained glass shop can supply linseed oil putty pre-mixed. Rainbow cement colors and products are available form masonry suppliers.īoth commercial glazing putty and Durham's are indeed "rock hard", which is a problem for restoration. Fine whiting is also sold by sporting goods stores for marking the lines on the field, and chalk dust for gymnast's and weightlifter's hands. Garden lime might not be finely divided enough for this use, though. It IS the same as marble dust (which is not the same as plaster of paris, that's unhydrated gypsum) and is also the same as garden lime (but be careful: there are several types of "lime", which might also be calcium oxide or hydroxide). ![]()
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